I have here an advertisement from a fellow up in NH by the name of
Scott Northcott, who "specializes in pegs for Timber Frame Construction".

RR1 Box 624
Valley Road
Walpole, NH  03608

Tel. 603-756-4204
Email:  northcott@t...

He makes all the pegs for the Timber Framer's Guild projects, and
is the main supplier for every timber framer I've met that didn't make
his own pegs.

He has tapered (1/64 over measurement to 1/64 under), straight
(which are actually 1 1/64" in diameter), and pegs chamfered on
both ends.

He also has "drawbore pegs", which are like the 1" tapered pegs,
but first 3 inches is tapered sharply to 5/8" diameter.

Pegs are made of air-dried oak or ash.

In one of his books, Tedd Benson recommends using a peg that
is two inches longer than the timber at hand.  That way, if the end
of the peg starts to split, you can cut off the end, and continue
driving the peg.  If your peg is the same size as the timber, then
you have two problems - the first is that the starter taper never
clears the other side of the timber (to be cut off), and the second
is that if the peg starts to split, you're screwed.  You really can't
back these out once you've got them in there.  Stuck, but good.

Bill Millios
who lurks here from time to time